If you're experiencing problems with your heating or hot water, check our trouobleshooting guide below as it may be a very simple issue to solve. If the problem still persists, please contact us
Cold top section of radiator:
This would indicate that air has got into the system and has become trapped. The air will rise to the top of a radiator, create an air pocket and therefore prevent hot water from reaching it.
Turn the heating off, use a radiator key to slacken the bleed valve at the top of one end of the radiator – there will be a hissing noise as the air escapes and as soon as water appears close the valve. Check the pressure gauge on the boiler – refer to your user manual for guidance. The pressure should read 1 bar; switch the heating back on and check the radiator.
Cold bottom section of radiator:
This occurs as a result of rust or sludge building up in a radiator and sinking to the bottom preventing the circulation of hot water. This requires for the radiator to be removed and flushed out and we recommend that you call us.
Radiators upstairs cold:
This is unusual and indicates the feed / expansion cistern in the loft has run dry and that the ball valve is jammed or not working correctly. Check that there is water in the tank and that the ball valve is operating freely and try again - if not call us.
Radiators cold downstairs:
Will possibly be as a result of a faulty pump – you will need to call us to test the pump.
All radiators not very warm:
Again, this indicates that there may be a build of rust or sludge and the radiators will need ‘power flushing’.
Radiators cool in one area of the house:
This is as a result of the radiators not being balanced so the radiators nearest to the boiler are taking more than their share of hot water. You will need to call us to balance your heating system.
Radiators heat output fluctuates:
This is normal – radiators heat output will naturally fluctuate when they are fitted with TRV’s (Thermostatic Radiator Valve).
No heating or hot water
- Check that a fuse has not blown and that there is power to the boiler.
- Check that the gas supply hasn’t been accidentally switched off.
- Check with neighbours to see if the gas supply to the area has failed.
- Check that there hasn’t been a power cut resulting in the programmer losing timer settings.
- Check that the programmer is on the ON position.
- In the event of loss of heating check that the room thermostat is turned up high enough.
- Check that the pilot light is lit on the boiler.
- Check to see if your boiler has a customer operated reset button – these are usually found on the front of the boiler – refer to your user manual.
- Try turning the electric supply to your boiler off then on again – it may reset the boiler settings.
- Check to make sure that your condensate pipe hasn’t frozen. If so try to unfreeze by holding a hot water bottle or heat wrap around the pipe or pour hot water (NOT boiling) over the frozen end of the pipe.
- Check that the ball valve float in the tank isn’t stuck. The tank will be in the loft and if there is little or no water in the tank the ball valve will be stuck. Gently try and release it without forcing it.
- Check the pressure gauge on the boiler – again, refer to your user manual for guidance. The pressure should read 1 bar.
Air may have got into the system; try bleeding the radiators. Turn the heating off and using a radiator key release the bleed valve at the top of the radiator – there will be a hissing noise as the air escapes. As soon as water starts to come out tighten the valve.
The pump which circulates hot water may be set too high. Try turning it down to a lower setting – refer to your user manual for guidance.
Knocks / creaking:
Pipework will expand and contract as they get hot or cold. As pipes pass through walls or through floor joists they can rub against them as they expand or contract.
This could be caused by sludge and scale within the boiler which causes some areas to heat up more than others causing intermittent banging. We recommend you call us to investigate.